Croatia’s Gulf of Kvarner – Rediscovering Relaxation

Croatia’s Gulf of Kvarner – Rediscovering Relaxation

The Adriatic Sea is the northernmost arm of the Mediterranean Sea, and the Gulf of Kvarner is where it reaches deepest into Croatia.  It is easy to understand why the tourist tradition has been longest here since the nobility of the Hapsburg Empire would journey south from Austria and Hungary to the nearest sea access.   Its desirability was amplified by the gentle climate and varied vegetation – citrus, palms, bananas and bamboo along with healing herbs, delicious vegetables, and fresh fish.  All were attractive enticements, along with “taking waters” in the sea, and “seeing and being seen” among the Austro-Hungarian aristocracy.

Opatija, in particular, became known as a spa town, the place to take “a cure”.  It was patronized by the likes of Sigmund Freud, Anton Checkov, and Gustav Mahler in the 19^th Century and the 12 km LungoMare stroll along the waterfront continues to offer tranquil views of the sea, islands, and villas with manicured gardens. There are many lovely restaurants, cafes, shopping, and artisan products. Very nice hiking is nearby on the Učka massif.

I recently enjoyed, along with Pamela, the hospitality and beautiful new accommodations of Navis Hotel – located at the very deepest incursion of the Gulf of Kvarner in Luka Preluk Bay.  Navis Hotel, with its stunning setting, excellent restaurant, and spa services offers an additional delight (I am so grateful to Zoran who suggested I be sure to look out from my balcony at dawn) –  devoted windsurfers who take advantage of the tramontana wind that is best at sunrise.  The wind aficionados often travel many hours, sometimes from as far away as Austria and Slovenia, beginning their drive at 2 or 3 am, to catch these winds for 30 – 60 minutes.  It was magical to watch them zipping across the sea, dancing with the wind, some doing flips and soaring high in the sky, with colorful sails and joyful spirits.

Nearby is Rijeka, a busy port, and northern Adriatic metropolis – ferry, bus, and train transportation and much cargo trade transports through Rijeka.  There is a charming green market, a pedestrian zone with cafes known as Korzo and a Riva recently redone.  We enjoyed a relaxed lunch of excellent seafood in the authentic ambiance of Konoba Na Katuna.  The History and Maritime Museum is a very interesting destination in Rijeka – who knew the torpedo and many other inventions and technological innovations were developed here? 

A visit to Trsat, an attractive hilltop suburb above Rijeka, offers a pilgrimage church and historic castle, with parts from Roman times,  and beautiful views out over the Gulf of Kvarner.

The biggest Carnival celebration in Croatia is held in Rijeka, it is second only to Venice in Europe.  There is a dazzling parade, with floats and fancy dress costumes, many participants, and even more spectators.  Many into-the-night festivities take place throughout the pre-Lent week-long carnival.   A unique folk custom during Carnival is of young men dressed as Zvončari, clad in animal skin drapes, ringing cow bells, to drive away evil spirits and to stir up another spring cycle.  It is a continuation of a pagan ritual adopted from pre-Christian times.